Photography Tutorials

The question how to load a Rolleiflex came up in on of the photography forums I visit, so I illustrated the process and took the chance to bring my photo related tutorials section "live" which I meant to do a while ago...

1. Take the old film spool from the bottom and place it in the take-up compartment

2. Place the film in the bottom of the camera and feed the backing paper under the first metal roll (film feeler)

3. Feed the backing paper trough the slot of the take-up spool

4. Roll the backing paper 2 times around the take-up spool (clockwise)

Part 2 - How to load a Rolleiflex >>

5. Fix the take-up spool in its compartment - place right side of the spool first and pull the knob on the left out, push the take-up spool in place and let the knob go.
Unfold the film advance crank and advance clockwise, until the arrows line up with the film feeler, close the back

6. Advance the film crank clockwise, until it stops - film counter shows "1". If the film advances without stopping, you did not feed the film under the "film feeler" roll (2)

7. Reverse film advance crank counterclockwise and fold away. Your Rolleiflex is ready to go

<< Part One - How To load a Rolleiflex

You can easily create a composition like this from three similar shots using layer masks in Photoshop. Basically, you set up a tripod, take a few single shots of you in different positions and compose the whole thing in Photoshop, using layers and masks...

First, select one of the shots as the main layer of the composition

open the second shot, select all (menu > select > all) and copy (menu > edit > copy)

paste (menu > edit > paste) into the first image, note the additional layer in the first image

create a layer mask by clicking on the marked icon in the layer palette

Photoshop layer masks part 2 >>

add a layer mask to the new layer, as before

with a little trick we can save some time and use the old mask from Layer 1 as a base for our new mask. hit the command key and click on the icon of layer mask #1, Photoshop will make an inverted selection of the mask. Invert the selection (menu > select > inverse) and fill (menu > edit > fill) with black ink, make sure Layer 2 mask is selected. see, half of the work is done already.

here again a visual of a half-finished mask

the mask view out of the channels palette

final result

have some fun experimenting with layer masks - one can produce stunning results with a few images. Also, it is possible to use the gradient tool in a mask to blend 2 images, just give it a try!

<< Photoshop layer masks part 2

select the layer mask, choose a fairly large brush and paint with black ink in the mask, note how the bottom image reveals in the painted area - voila, that's how layer masks work

finish the mask with a smaller brush for good detail. tip: use a brush with a softness that matches the softness of the image to make it look more realistic.

this image illustrates how the finished mask looks, you can activate this visual of a mask in the channels palette. Double click on the icon gives an option for color display and opacity of the mask

now you have the basics of working with Photoshop layer masks, we perfect your skills with a 3rd image, which you paste in the main document.

<< Photoshop layer masks part 1 | Photoshop layer masks part 3 >>

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Once the developing is done, you can dispose the developer - many developers are one-shot developers only, so they have to go after use. Some developers -like Diafine- can be used over and over, so that would go back in the bottle.

*repeat the process with the stop bath and the fixer (no pictures here)*

Wash your film under running water for 5-10 minutes, discard the water in the tank often.
*an alternative method to save water: fill the tank with fresh water, invert 5 times, discard the water and fill the tank again with fresh water. Turn 10 times and discard, fill again and turn 20 times, one final wash. This process takes less time and saves gallons of water.*

Take the reel out of the canister and spool your film off the reel, soak it for a few seconds in water with a drop of dishwashing liquid. Some people use Hypoclear, which does the same thing - both prevent water stains on the negative.

Wipe the water residue off your negative strip with a film squeegee

Hang your film on a line in a dust-free room (the shower is a good place - close the curtain) and let it dry for some time. Use a clip at the bottom as well, to prevent curling of your film.

After the film is dry, cut it in strips of 5 or 6 negatives and store it in archival sleeves.
The negatives are ready for printing or scanning.

<< develop b/w at home 5

1st pour the developer in the tank

Always agitate slowly. For right now, use the manufacturer's developing time and agitate according to their recommendations. Later on, you might want to experiment with these times. Developing time controls the shadows and agitation controls grain and contrast. Different developers and film combinations give you a different look of your negatives. I prefer Kodak Tri-X as my standard film and develop it in Ilford DD-X @ ISO 400. For ISO 800 and 1600 I either use Ilford Microphen or Diafine, both are speed enhancing developers for push process.

<< develop b/w at home part 4 | develop b/w at home 6 >>

finally it's time to get out of the sweaty changing bag - close the developing tank tight and take it out of the bag. *** we're out of the changing bag ***

it's time to get the chemicals up to spec, mix the developer, fixer and stop bath according to the manufacturer's specifications (the old dogs have 'em prepared already :P). Get the temperature right - 68°F (20°C) is standard. At higher temperatures, more contrast and grain will develop.

<< develop b/w at home part 3 | develop b/w at home part 5 >>

hold the film with your left thumb and advance with your right thumb, move forward until the whole roll of film is on the reel, rip the film off it's spool and put the film canister aside (in the changing bag)

position the holder in the reel

place the loaded reel and stem into the developing tank

<< develop b/w at home part 2 | develop b/w at home part 4 >>

In order to load your film on the reel, you will need to cut off the narrow part of the
film

round the corners with scissors to make sure the film loads safely on the reel

It's time to break out the changing bag - for the next few minutes, you'll need the sensitivity of your fingertips only - yepp, basically you're blind, everything is happening in the bag. Place your roll of film and the developing canister, including the lid, the film reel and the stem into the changing bag.
***film, canister and your hands are in the changing bag***

position the film in the first groove of the reel... I prefer to use the Jobo plastic reels

<< develop b/w at home part 01 | develop b/w at home part 03 >>

There are only a few things you need to develop your black and white film at home.
Nope, you won't need a darkroom, only a little bit of space and running water. The whole setup will cost around $100-$150, much less on the used market. In the long run you will save a lot of time & money developing your own film, not to mention full control over the quality of your negatives...

What you need - from left to right
1.) measuring cup (ideally one for each chemistry)
2.) storage bottles
3.) film developer, stop bath and fixer (brand of your choice)
4.) squegee
5.) darkroom thermometer
6.) developing tank & film reel
7.) small graduate
8.) funnel(s)
9.) scissors
10.) film retriever or can opener
11.) changing bag

now, let's get started - you have exposed your b/w film and take it out of the camera... usually you would take it to the lab and anxiuosly wait a few days to get it from the lab. From now on you will get a hold of your black and white film within less than an hour or so.

First, you'll want to retrieve the film leader out of of the film canister - old school shooters use can openers, I highly recommend a Hakuba film picker.

develop b/w at home part 2 >>