&t
Once the developing is done, you can dispose the developer - many developers are one-shot developers only, so they have to go after use. Some developers -like Diafine- can be used over and over, so that would go back in the bottle.
*repeat the process with the stop bath and the fixer (no pictures here)*

Wash your film under running water for 5-10 minutes, discard the water in the tank often.
*an alternative method to save water: fill the tank with fresh water, invert 5 times, discard the water and fill the tank again with fresh water. Turn 10 times and discard, fill again and turn 20 times, one final wash. This process takes less time and saves gallons of water.*

Take the reel out of the canister and spool your film off the reel, soak it for a few seconds in water with a drop of dishwashing liquid. Some people use Hypoclear, which does the same thing - both prevent water stains on the negative.

Wipe the water residue off your negative strip with a film squeegee

Hang your film on a line in a dust-free room (the shower is a good place - close the curtain) and let it dry for some time. Use a clip at the bottom as well, to prevent curling of your film.
After the film is dry, cut it in strips of 5 or 6 negatives and store it in archival sleeves.
The negatives are ready for printing or scanning.


Comments (12)
very useful and helpful
Posted by sash | December 13, 2006 8:08 AM
Posted on December 13, 2006 08:08
Hi Markus...
That guide is very helpful!! Thanks for that.
I´ll try to handle that after I visited the Voelklinger-Huette on September 1st.
I hope it goes well then :)
Best wishes & keep up taking your fascinating pictures out of New York's streetlife!
Sven
Posted by Sven | August 11, 2007 9:09 AM
Posted on August 11, 2007 09:09
Thank you. That was very useful!
Posted by Brittany | August 11, 2007 10:45 PM
Posted on August 11, 2007 22:45
thank you so much for the help.... it's been hard to get good info on how to do it step by step! you really know your stuff! thanks!!!
Posted by kimberly | November 28, 2007 2:46 PM
Posted on November 28, 2007 14:46
Does the fixer step need to be done in sealed tank? If yes, how can I observe whether the film has turned from milky color to clear?
Thanks
Posted by jia | January 5, 2008 3:11 PM
Posted on January 5, 2008 15:11
yes, fixer needs to be done in the closed tank. the fixing process goes by time, I usually fix for 5 to 7 minutes.
Sometimes I would re-use the fixer and due to exhaustion of the chemicals the time needs to be longer. I check the fixing time before processing with a piece of the film leader. (time 'til clear)
Posted by Markus Hartel | January 5, 2008 3:16 PM
Posted on January 5, 2008 15:16
Thank for the tutorial - the pictures really help.
Posted by briandaly | February 2, 2008 6:47 AM
Posted on February 2, 2008 06:47
Where can I find a clip like the yellow one in the last picture? :)
Posted by Nadia | April 29, 2008 9:36 PM
Posted on April 29, 2008 21:36
I bought 'em at B&H photo in NYC
Posted by Markus Hartel | April 29, 2008 11:18 PM
Posted on April 29, 2008 23:18
Hi,
Great thank you for the tutorial...I am intrigued if the same method can be used for developing colour negatives. Please pardon me due to my lack of knowledge about film.
Thanks
Posted by Duc | May 2, 2008 5:51 PM
Posted on May 2, 2008 17:51
Thanks for your help with your instructions. I always leave my film in the running wash for 20 mins while I clean up everything else. Good idea to save water though in case of a water shortage. After the wash, I always use 2 drops of wetting agent. Is ordinary washing up liquid alright?
Posted by Anonymous | August 23, 2008 4:18 PM
Posted on August 23, 2008 16:18
you're welcome ;D I always use dishwashing liquid with excellent results...
Posted by Markus Hartel | August 23, 2008 4:50 PM
Posted on August 23, 2008 16:50